Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island, Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville, is located 112 km (70 mi) southwest of Adelaide. The Investigator Straits separates it from the Yorke Peninsula. And between it and the closest point on the mainland at Cape Jervis is the sometimes boisterous 8 mile wide Backstairs Passage. Kangaroo Island is 150 km long, 57 km at its widest point, with a coastline stretching more than 500 km in an island of rolling hills, the highest 307m (1,010 ft).

When sail was the only means of travel, two ships of different flags explored the seas around this island for the first time and found strange creatures that hopped about on their hind feet. But they did not find any human inhabitants, evidenced by the lack of campfires and tameness of the wildlife. One of the ship’s masters shot some of these creatures to feed his crew and then named this new land in honour of the strange beasts that, in 1802, were called “kanguroo.”

The two ships were the English Investigator and the French Le Geographe, and each charted opposite coasts of the island, naming bays and headlands for their respective countries. That is why today the southern shores of Kangaroo Island have French names while its north shore bears the names of English lords and admirals.

When Banyandah sailed north from Tasmania in 2009, after five days our destination of American River on Kangaroo Island was seen across Eastern Cove. During the hour we sailed across its calm water, we could see a beehive of boating activity near the river entry. And that seemed so strange until we realised we’d made landfall on Easter Saturday, with throngs from Adelaide holidaying on the island. American River, home to 120 permanent residents, was first settled by a group of American sealers, who had camped there in 1803, a year after Flinders charted the area. They had arrived on the brig Union and from local timber built a schooner they named Independence. Upon reading this and seeing only dry twisted scrub, we reckoned they must have harvested every last tree.

American River

The channel into American River is marked by a lit entrance beacon and unlit poles kept to port when entering. Strong tidal currents are experienced through the narrows between Strawbridge Point and the wharf, and further up into the anchorage. The main wharf, built for commercial vessels is high and has no ladders. A lower (and newer) extension to the north is used by local commercial boats.

There isn’t much at American River. One servo that sells very limited supplies and a sports club that’s rarely open. But it does have plenty of tidal current and therefore it’s recommended to call the coastal patrol on VHF 77 to arrange the temporary use of one of their moorings. Generally, good holding in sand is had in the blind channel just north of Picnic Point – an area largely free of the remains of disused moorings. Being nearly landlocked, American River offers the best protection on the island and is a good base to use when contemplating an island land trip.

Kingscote

Just a short day sail from American River is the island’s main town of Kingscote, which, in 1836, became the first settlement in South Australia. There was some idea about it becoming the free colony’s capital, but a shortage of reliable freshwater ended this thought and the migrants that had survived the rigorous trip from England, and then the hardships faced on Kangaroo Island, moved to what is now known as Adelaide.

A short walk north of the town, at Rennie’s Bluff near Reeves Point, stands a Mulberry tree that was planted by the original immigrants. It still bears fruit. Near that location is a cemetery and lots of historical information, and just up the road is the Hope Cottage Museum. Hope Cottage is the last of a set of three identical cottages named ‘Hope’, ‘Faith’, and ‘Charity’ built in the 1850s. With exhibits depicting the pioneering history of Kingscote and Kangaroo Island, it’s a very worthwhile place to visit.

Facilities

Kingscote has good facilities for visitors. There are two pubs, a laundry and restaurants as well as a large supermarket. Fuel can only be obtained in jerry cans. Water can be obtained from the middle jetty, from a tap under a metal plate at the head of the jetty. The Island Resort will provide hot showers for a moderate charge.

There are three anchorages at Kingscote – but each has its limitations. There are also three jetties at Kingscote. The first, and largest, is used for commercial shipping. The second is used by fishing boats and the third, furthest to the north, has a small pontoon with room for one or two yachts. Just off the second and third jetty is an anchorage with good holding in about 4 meters. Several moorings are also there and may be used after checking with the harbour master on (08) 85532100 or Channel VHF 16, 80 or 77. The summer easterlies can make it awkward getting on or off your vessel and significant weather from the south through east to the north will necessitate a move to The Beatrice Islets or The Bay of Shoals.

The Beatrice Islets, located on Sutherlands Shoal, are approx 2 nm ENE of Kingscote. The anchorage is in the lee of the Islets in 3m over a sandy bottom. Although it can be windy, shelter from the swell is available because of the shoal to windward. There is no contact with town.

Bay of Shoals, Approx 1 nm N of Kingscote, following the beacons well wide of Beatrice Point and still inside that huge sandbank protecting Kingscote Harbour is the Bay of Shoals, where, with care, a vessel of less than 2 metres draft can find well-protected anchorage. Northeast winds will still be felt, but any seas are blocked by either land or shoals. Unfortunately, it’s an hour’s walk to town.

North Coast

During the summer months, when Southern Ocean storms are well south and the swell is low, with the prevailing winds easterly, many of the isolated bays along Kangaroo’s north coast provide safe anchorage. One of the nicest is Snug Cove where Banyandah spent a marvellous Christmas, and we can recommend this scenically beautiful spot when the weather is suitable.
A warning – Anything from north and you should go pronto.
Here are some other anchorages. Regard all GPS locations as approximate.

Marsden Point, 35°34.4’S ~ 137°38’ E
Shelter from NW through SW
About 3/4 nm south of the point, anchor just south of a small spit of stones running off the beach. Watch out for tidal streams flowing past Marsden Point that often make the seas around it quite lumpy.

Boxing Bay, 35°34’S ~ 137°36’E
The east end of the bay provides shelter from S through E
The southwest part of bay is good for winds SW-SE. The holding varies. The east end has large patches of deep sand, but also quite a bit of barely covered rock. The western end has tape weed, difficult to get a good hold. Look for clear patches. If wind shifts to the W-NW, move to Marsden Point anchorage. The nearest shelter from northerlies is Kingscote Harbour, the Beatrice Islets, or Bay of Shoals.

Mares Tail, 35°36.1’ S ~ 137°16.1’ E
Shelter from SW through S to SE
A pretty anchorage close in to the high cliffs decorated with greenery. We were told there are sea eagle nests high up the cliffs. A small pebbly beach exposed at low tide.

Knob Point, 35°36.7’ S ~ 137°14.5’ E
Shelter from S through E to NE
A conspicuous headland between Cape Cassini and Stokes Bay has a small reef that provides shelter to the small cove to the west. Anchor in patches of sand in the cove. If swell or wind from the west, move around the small reef to Mares Tail.

King George Beach / Hawk’s Nest, 35°39’ S ~ 137°07.7’ E
Shelter from S through E to NE.
A series of delightful bays that should be avoided if there is any swell from the west. Anchor in sand anywhere between the small drying reef extending NW from the NE corner and the rocks to the western end of the beaches.

Western River, 35°40.43’S ~ 136°58.25’E
Shelter from W though S to SE, with swinging room for about 3 to 4 boats. Tall headlands to the east and west provide good wind protection, although the anchorage may be affected by swell. Anchor in 4 to 6 metres of water in sand. Rocks extend from the headland on both sides. This cove is accessible by public road, and is often used by professional fishermen. The Western River enters the cove on the eastern end of a good sandy beach.

Snug Cove, 35°41.6’S ~ 136°50.8’E
Shelter from SW though S to NE. Its entrance so small it can be difficult to identify from seawards. Look for a 25m conical rock that’s just off the northern headland, which is probably a few hundred metres high. A very attractive little cove providing good shelter in all but northerly winds, when it can be extremely dangerous, as can be the entire north coast of Kangaroo Island! We were told Snug Cove had been nicknamed “Snug Trap” because of the number of boats wrecked there. We shared the cove with only one other vessel and thought it would be too snug if more than 3 or 4 boats anchored in it. Two moorings take the best positions. We used one with the owner’s permission. Kangaroo Beach, a mile or so to the west, provides a viable alternative.

Kangaroo Beach, 35°41.7’ S ~ 136°49.5’ E – Shelter from S through SE to E. A relatively deep and open bay providing good holding in sand. Often a better choice than Snug Cove because it is larger and rarely crowded. However, the presence of any westerly swell can make this anchorage uncomfortable.

Next >>  Spencer Gulf

Send us your best anchorages and we’ll put them online to share with the boating fraternity.