Kangaroo Island, Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville, is located 112 km (70 mi) southwest of Adelaide. The Investigator Straits separates it from the Yorke Peninsula. Between it and the closest point on the mainland at Cape Jervis is the often boisterous 8 mile wide Backstairs Passage. Kangaroo Island is 150 km long, 57 km at its widest point, with a coastline stretching more than 500 km in an island of rolling hills, the highest 307m (1,010 ft). We are always amazed by the abundance and beauty of the wildlife; from giant Monitor lizards, to Wedge Tailed Eagles, New Zealand Fur Seals, to Fairy Penguins.
History: When sail was the only means of travel, two ships of different flags explored for the first time the seas around this island and found strange creatures that hopped about on their hind feet. But they did not find any human inhabitants, evidenced by the lack of campfires and tameness of the wildlife. One of the ship’s masters shot some of these creatures to feed his crew and then named this new land in honour of the strange beasts that, in 1802, were called “kanguroo.”
The two ships were the English Investigator and the French Le Geographe, and each charted opposite coasts of the island, naming bays and headlands for their respective countries. That is why today the southern shores of Kangaroo Island have French names while its north shore bears the names of English lords and admirals.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON CHARTS AUS 345 and 780 (from Hydrographic Office)
Caution is required as positions taken from the chart and entered as waypoints may be up to 1/2 nm in error.
Even though our positions were taken from a modern chartplotter – Regard all GPS locations as approximate.
When sail was the only means of travel, two ships of different flags explored the seas around this island for the first time and found strange creatures that hopped about on their hind feet. But they did not find any human inhabitants, evidenced by the lack of campfires and tameness of the wildlife. One of the ship’s masters shot some of these creatures to feed his crew and then named this new land in honour of the strange beasts that, in 1802, were called “kanguroo.”
The two ships were the English Investigator and the French Le Geographe, and each charted opposite coasts of the island, naming bays and headlands for their respective countries. That is why today the southern shores of Kangaroo Island have French names while its north shore bears the names of English lords and admirals.
American River
American River, home to 120 permanent residents, was first settled by a group of American sealers, who camped there in 1803, a year after Flinders charted the area. They had arrived on the brig Union and built a schooner from local timber that they named Independence. Upon reading this and seeing only dry twisted scrub on the shores of American River, we reckoned they must have harvested every last tree.
The channel into American River is marked by a lit entrance beacon and unlit poles kept to port when entering. Strong tidal currents first experienced through the narrows between Strawbridge Point and the wharf affect the anchorage. Being nearly landlocked, American River offers the best all round protection on the island and is a good base when contemplating an island land trip.
Anchorage: Anchoring is one choice but because there is plenty of tidal current, it is recommended to call the coastal patrol on VHF 21 to arrange the temporary use of a mooring. Generally, good holding in sand can be had in the blind channel just north of Picnic Point – an area largely free of disused moorings.
The main wharf, built for commercial vessels, is high and has no ladders. And a newer, lower extension to the north is used by local commercial boats. Note that unless prior arrangements have been made with the harbour master there is 4 hour limit at the wharf. A penalty of $1,250 applies to each infringement. The harbour master is Ian King tel: 0418 822 718 or (08) 8553 7003.
Facilities: There isn’t much at American River. A petrol station selling limited supplies is 1.2 km along the road towards Ballast Head. Another good opportunity to meet the locals is at the Shed, which had humble beginnings as a change room for the local football and cricket teams, but was transformed in 1992 to the present day venue. On Tuesday afternoons the locals participate in Indoor Bowling and that evening there is a Kangaroo Island wide Darts competition there.
The bar is open 7 days a week from 4 pm until midnight. A full range of beverages are available including tea and coffee. On Friday nights you will find a choice of 3 or more main course meals and desserts at very reasonable charges. There are also shower facilities for people visiting on yachts. A small charge applies for this as rainwater is precious. The Shed can be contacted on (08) 8553 7288
Alternative to American River
Ballast Head, Eastern Cove
35°46.24’S ~ 137°47.82’E
Shelter from S through W to N in 5 m sand.
Good for overnight stay if not needing to enter American River. No Current.
Kingscote
Just a short day sail from American River is the island’s main town of Kingscote, which, in 1836, became the first settlement in South Australia. It was to become the free colony’s capital, but a shortage of reliable freshwater ended this thought and the migrants that had survived the rigorous trip from England, and then the hardships faced on Kangaroo Island, moved to what is now known as Adelaide.
Anchorage: There are three anchorages at Kingscote – each has its limitations. There are also three jetties at Kingscote. The first, and largest, is used for commercial shipping. The second is used by fishing boats and the third, furthest to the north, has a small pontoon with room for one or two yachts. Between the second and third jetty is an anchorage with good holding in about 4 meters. Several moorings are also there and may be used after checking with the harbour master on (08) 85532100 or Channel VHF 16, 80 or 77. In that area the summer easterlies can make it awkward getting on or off your vessel and significant weather from the north through east to the south will necessitate a move to The Beatrice Islets or The Bay of Shoals.
Facilities / Attractions:
Kingscote has good facilities for visitors. There are two pubs, a laundry and restaurants as well as a large supermarket. Fuel can only be obtained in jerry cans. Water can be obtained from the middle jetty, from a tap under a metal plate at the head of the jetty. The Island Resort will provide hot showers for a moderate charge.
A short walk north of the town to Rennie’s Bluff near Reeves Point is a Mulberry tree that was planted by the original immigrants. It still bears fruit. Near that location is a cemetery with lots of historical information, and just up the road is the Hope Cottage Museum. Hope Cottage, with exhibits depicting the pioneering history of Kingscote and Kangaroo Island, is the last of a set of three identical cottages named ‘Hope’, ‘Faith’, and ‘Charity’ built in the 1850s. It is very worthwhile to visit.
The Beatrice Islets, located on Sutherlands Shoal, are approx 2 nm ENE of Kingscote. The anchorage is in the lee of the Islets in 3m over a sandy bottom. Although it can be windy, shelter from the swell is available because of the shoal to windward. There is no contact with town.
Bay of Shoals, approx 1 nm N of Kingscote, following the beacons well wide of Beatrice Point but still inside the huge sandbank protecting Kingscote Harbour. With care a vessel of less than 2 m draught can find well-protected anchorage. Northeast winds will still be felt, but any seas are blocked by either land or shoals. Unfortunately, it’s an hour’s walk to town.
North Coast
During the summer months, when Southern Ocean storms are well south and the swell is low, with the prevailing easterly winds, many of the isolated bays along Kangaroo’s north coast provide lovely safe anchorage. One of the nicest is Snug Cove where Banyandah spent a marvellous Christmas, and we can recommend this scenically beautiful spot when the weather is suitable. A warning – Anything from north and you should go pronto.
Marsden Point
35°34.40’S ~ 137°38’E
Shelter from SW through W to NW
About 3/4 nm south of the point, anchor according to draught just south of a small spit of stones running off the beach. Watch out for tidal streams flowing past Marsden Point that often make the seas around it quite lumpy.
Boxing Bay
35°34’S ~ 137°36’E
The east end of the bay provides shelter from E through S while the southwest part of bay is good for winds SE through SW. The holding varies. The east end has large patches of deep sand, but also quite a bit of barely covered rock. The western end has ribbon weed, difficult to get a good hold. Look for clear patches. If approaching from the west, take care to avoid the partially concealed reef extending northward from White Point. At the eastern end, underwater rocks extend out from the headland. If wind shifts to the W-NW, move to Marsden Point anchorage. The nearest shelter from northerlies is Kingscote Harbour, the Beatrice Islets, or Bay of Shoals.
Mares Tail
35°36.00’S ~ 137°16.89’E
Shelter from SE through S to SW
A pretty anchorage close in to the high cliffs decorated with greenery. We were told there are sea eagle nests high up the cliffs. At low tide, a small pebbly beach is exposed.
Knob Point
35°36.88’S ~ 137°14.56’E
Shelter from NE through E to S
A conspicuous headland between Cape Cassini and Stokes Bay has a small reef that provides shelter to the small cove to the west. Anchor in patches of sand in the cove. If swell or wind from the west, move around the small reef to Mares Tail.
King George Beach / Hawk’s Nest
35°39.00’S ~ 137°07.70’E
Shelter from NE through E to S.
A series of delightful bays that should be avoided if there is any swell from the west. Anchor in sand anywhere between the small drying reef extending NW from the NE corner and the rocks to the western end of the beaches.
Western River
35°40.29’S ~ 136°58.46’E
Shelter from SE though S to W, in 4 to 6 m sand with swinging room for about 3 to 4 boats. Tall headlands to the east and west provide good wind protection, although the anchorage may be affected by swell. Rocks extend from the headland on both sides. This cove is accessible by public road and is often used by professional fishermen. The Western River enters the cove on the eastern end of a very nice beach.
Snug Cove
35°41.60’S ~ 136°50.80’E
Shelter from NE though S to SW in 5 m sand.
Its entrance is so small it can be difficult to identify from seawards. Look for a 25m conical rock that’s just off the northern headland that is probably a few hundred metres high. A very attractive little cove providing good shelter in all but northerly winds when it can be extremely dangerous, as can be the entire north coast of Kangaroo Island! We were told Snug Cove had been nicknamed “Snug Trap” because of the number of boats wrecked there. We shared the cove with only one other vessel and thought it would be too snug if more than 3 or 4 boats anchored in it. Two moorings take the best positions. We used one with the owner’s permission. Kangaroo Beach, a mile or so to the west, provides a viable alternative.
Kangaroo Beach
35°42.00’S ~ 136°49.90’E
Shelter from E through SE to S, good holding in sand
A relatively deep and open bay, often a better choice than Snug Cove because it is larger and rarely crowded. However, the presence of any westerly swell can make this anchorage uncomfortable.
Next >> Spencer Gulf